Peaks and Valleys
04/21/20
by Ty Fujimura
It was like watching dominoes fall. One place made to close, then a couple more, and another. So, like most, I was forced to make the call to close all the restaurants, regroup and see what our options could be. I find myself in a very unique situation in that I attempt to operate several different concepts, with different staff, different management, different most everything. The common denominator is myself. This is great most of the time. There is never a dull day, the diversity is amazing and the people are what keep me going. But at times it makes decisions very difficult. I struggle with friendships and business relationships, trying to distance them. Am I making the right moves? Did I take all into account? Fortunately I have great support from family, friends and peers. The current situation is uncharted waters for us all. Personally, these have some of the worst times of my life.
I went through some crazy emotions at the outset. Defeat. Felt that one a lot. I started my first joint, SmallBar, when I was 27. I have learned and achieved so much over the past 18 years. I have been blessed to have had opportunities to work with some amazing talented people. I’m even more fortunate to watch some amazing talent grow right before my eyes. And, to have loyal customers that are now more like family and friends, has been incredible. How fulfilling. Just amazing. However, I felt there was a possibility that I may lose everything I have spent my entire adult life building. That was a real, but selfish, feeling.
I needed to focus and try and make sense of what was happening around me. Take inventory in every sense of the word. Quickly, the decision to look at this as an opportunity was made. “Come back as the best version of ourselves” became the new mission. The best of ourselves as people, professionals, artists and restaurants as a whole.
The short-term goal was to get as many folks as possible connected with ways to get financial assistance, whether through government, grants, funds or crowdsourced or social media-based affairs. The outpouring of support for our entire industry has been inspiring. Sadly, much more is needed. Like many other restaurants, we don’t have massive cash reserve. We quickly ran out of money. But we did have a modest food and beverage inventory.
For the locations we could open, Arami, SmallBar, and Entente, plans were hatched to do some sort of service. Sure, the offerings had to be slimmed down and we had to get creative to balance the economics of reopening for limited service, but, in my opinion, it was the right thing to do. Fujimura Hospitality has always been about the neighborhoods. Having these places open helps give folks some sort of comfort, knowing that their neighborhood joint, their local, is there for them. And, for the few employees we can afford to come into work, I feel they need it too; financially and emotionally.
At Entente, my great friend, partner and chef, Brian Fisher, was swift to invent. Within a few days, he was able to create several killer family meals that we are currently selling on Tock. We are using our website, ententechicago.com, to sell our signature Woodford Reserve selections, t-shirts from Time Out Market and gift certificates. Our pastry chef, Jared Bacheller, has put together incredible offerings for purchase through Tock as well. Staff were enlisted to be delivery drivers. Gratuities have been overwhelmingly generous, and they flow directly to the crew. The togetherness and appreciation I have felt in that restaurant and from the neighbors has been humbling.
Chef Joseph Fontelera at Arami has also made the most of a tight situation. Although Arami is not able to offer our full line of sushi and sashimi, the response from the community has been overwhelmingly positive for our “new” menu. Together with my brother/partner, Troy, we have actually developed a concept that we look forward to launching in the near future, Lono Poke, a delivery-only Hawaiian menu that will operate out of Arami. This is part of the long-term mission, knowing that when we do eventually reopen, we need to maximize our business.
At SmallBar, projects that would have required us to close are being done. Refinishing the floor and bar top were punch list items we have been wanting to do for a very long time. But we couldn’t afford to close for the number of days the work demanded. It’s not an issue now.
These initiatives have only been able to bring a small handful of people back to work. This is better than nothing, I suppose. I’m trying to do more. I want to do more. I also need to be sure I am switching gears to ensure we can fully reopen these places. Where is the money going to come from? Unfortunately all of my restaurants will go further into debt to be able to reopen. It’s the sad reality most small restaurants will face. This reality weighs very heavily on me.
“Eh, peaks and valleys.” I find myself saying that a lot lately when folks ask me how I’m doing. Sometimes I say it with a lot of optimism, like I know brighter days are most certainly ahead of us. Those glory days of sitting outside and eating a few snacks, while drinking a beer or three, with people you really like to just be with and with people that you probably don’t like at all, but, you know, it’s a package deal. Those days are getting closer.
But sometimes I say it like I'm deep in the valley. And although I can see blue skies and little puffy clouds drifting by, the pitch of the climb seems too much. Maybe the challenge is just more than I’m willing to commit to.
Too much drama. At times, this whole situation managed to bring out the absolute worst in me. The other day, I had a meltdown and was yelling at home. My kids were freaked and my wife was certainly not impressed by my performance. It wasn’t me. I hated it. I hated the situation. I hated not knowing. My head would spin trying to juggle what was going to happen with these different concepts/restaurants that have dozens of great people at each joint that look to me for answers and direction. And I was deflecting all that on the people that are steadfast in their support and I know for certain will help me find joy and love right now.
I feel fortunate every day that I am in the position I am in. Growing up with my brother and business partner, Troy, on a farm in small town Indiana, I never imagined I would be here. I have made mistakes and will make more I am sure. I have struggled through some tough shit. Now you throw this crisis on top. It’s crazy. It’s always been about the family though. My family, my extended family, all our family, our community. Now is when we make each other better. I know that we will lose some along the way, but together we can find comfort.
Personally I’ve been finding happiness in cooking for the family. Dishes that I’ve cooked with my family since I was a child. Simple stuff like fried rice. My kids love “taco night”. Who doesn’t? Seeing the smiles while we sit and eat helps me forget for a while. Just typing that made me feel better. It’s something I can count on. We all need something, someone like that right now. If you don’t have that, don’t feel ashamed to ask for help finding it. Now is not the time for pride. And if you find you have more to give, please do.
Recipe for Fuji Fried Rice.
1 qt leftover white rice
1/4 cup diced carrot
1/4 cup diced yellow onion
1/4 cup diced celery
2 cloves garlic
2-3 slices of fresh ginger
1 egg scrambled
3 slices cooked bacon chopped or 1 cup chopped teriyaki chicken thighs or pork, spam
soy or tamari sauce
In a wok. heat the vegetable oil, add ginger and garlic, and stir. Add vegetables, soy sauce, and salt & pepper to taste. Crumble cold leftover white rice into the wok. Stir. Add soy sauce to taste. Add a pinch of MSG if you have some. Add protein and stir. Remove from the stovetop and plate. Top with scrambled eggs. Add your favorite condiment for fun! - unagi sauce, sriracha, ketchup, whatevas.
Ty Fujimura is the owner of Fujimura Hospitality, which operates several food serving concepts throughout Chicago including Arami, Entente, Heineken Pub97, Small Bar and Lucky Klucker. Ty grew up in Indiana where he was raised by his father, who is Hawaiian through Japanese descent, and his mother, an Indiana native. After graduating from DePaul University in Indiana, Ty packed up his belongings to head to the “big city”: Chicago. The restaurant industry might not be in his blood, but it’s long been a passion, and Ty has worked his way up within it Early in his career, he worked as a busser, a bar back, a host, and food runner. Ty was an aspiring DJ in his early twenties, and he worked an office job by day and in clubs and restaurants at night. His first foray owning and operating a restaurant occurred when he purchased a small corner tavern in Logan Square that is now known as the original Small Bar. Ty opened Arami in Chicago’s West Town neighborhood in 2010 and most recently Entente in the Lakeview neighborhood.
When asked about his philosophy when it comes to food and restaurant service Ty said, “I do not believe in following trends.” He first became interested in exploring quality food during a road trip to New Orleans in the late 1990s. He left Chicago with the intention of heading to New Orleans to “just eat.” While driving to Louisiana, Ty stopped in different states to try unique foods along the way. “That was a formative trip for me, and the beginning of my obsession with good food and great service,” he says.
At Arami, Ty and his team are dedicated to educating their guests about traditional Japanese cuisine and flavors. For him, the most important part of a guest’s experience is that they be treated the way he would like to be treated in a restaurant. In his words,“if you can do that, you not only earn the diners trust, but you also ensure a certain amount of respect among your team members–other servers, the chefs and the owner.”
The one-Michelin-starred Entente, which brought elevated, chef-driven cuisine to Chicago’s Lakeview neighborhood for two years, made the move to River North in early 2019. Entente offers a choose-your-own shared tasting menu with high end cuisine in a casual setting with a focus on seasonal ingredients and preparations. The ever-changing menu is a collaboration between the entire team, with customized wine, cocktail and non-alcoholic beverage pairings available for each dish upon request.
Within five years, Ty hopes to still be operating restaurants, but wants to do so at a slower pace: “it hasn’t been until recently that I’ve been able to step back and enjoy the fruits of my labor. My favorite part about being a restaurateur is coming up with the concept, designing and building the space. I want to take time to share the restaurants with my family.”
When Ty isn’t busy working the floor at Arami or Entente he enjoys playing soccer, spending time on Lake Maxinkukee in Indiana and sharing food experiences with friends and family. Ty lives in the Avondale neighborhood with his wife Diana and their two children.
Ty Fujimura worked with Won Kim, the Quarantine Times Monday editor. Each week, Won Kim selects a Chicagoan to share a commissioned creative response to the pandemic.